Skukuza 15 – 17th August

Thursday, 15th           We leave the rather disappointing Satara behind us and head out of the gates at 6.45am. In unusually partly cloudy weather we cross the Sweni river and not far beyond come upon two lionesses that have been busy on a meal of which there is no trace.

Striking in the veld are the bright yellow Sjambok Pod trees which are in full flower.

We stop at Tshokwane for some breakfast and do battle with very streetwise monkeys that have learnt to unzip tourist’s bags.

Then on to Skukuza which we reach at 10am – and not a moment too soon as we snatch a great campsite just ahead of two other caravaners. We have been really fortunate in each of the four camps where we have stayed to have wonderful campsites – level, shaded, private, close to ablutions, near bush for birds.

As we arrive in the Skukuza campsite, a running battle is taking place between campers and a brazen troop of monkeys. We then launch our own counter attack and Renette deploys her Chinese leopard whilst I let fly with my Daisy pellet gun. In no time the monkeys are in full retreat to the loud applause of the other campers. Peace is restored. We are now old hands at this.

Late afternoon we go down to the swiftly flowing Sand River.

Friday, 16th          Today is calm, clear and sunny – perfect for Lake Panic. I am first there at 6.10am and take up the sought after seat in the corner of the “L” shaped hide. From here one commands a view in front of the hide and to the right. The water level is a bit low exposing mud banks which is good for wading birds.

I am not there long when a loud alarm ‘cough’ come from the right of the hide and soon thereafter a handsome male leopard appears through the trees near the water’s edge.

He then walks along the edge of the lake and finally disappears along the stream bed to the right of the hide.

Of course I alerted the other two occupants of the hide to this wonderful sight, one of them a  Frenchman who had only just arrived in Africa the day before and seemed to think that this was to be expected. I have been to Lake Panic scores of times and although this area seethes with leopards, I have never seen one from the hide. A truly spectacular sight.

I then spend a couple of hours photographing the more usual sights.

The Village Weavers are already making their nests.

Skukuza has so many options and this afternoon we go out west along the Pretoriuskop road H1-1 to Transport Dam some 20km distant. This is lovely in the late afternoon sunlight.

On the way back we come to a Hyena den in a culvert. Here some young pups are playing.

Sunday, 17th               Skukuza is much more laid back than Satara. Arriving at the gate at 5.45am we are second in line as snoozy tourists struggle to get out of bed. First onto Moreoela S83, we have gone about halfway before the mob arrives and we are enveloped in dust as three cars speed by. That just does not happen at Shingwedzi. We continue to the H13 and turn right arriving at the high-level bridge over the Sabie. After coffee we continue down the H4-1 river road to Nkuhlu.

   Returning to camp, we stop again on the high-level bridge and watch a Pied Kingfisher diving into a pool.

Skukuza is beginning to replace their old huts with a new design.

They really look beautiful and still manage to retain the rondavel look. I for one am pleased that the thatch is being dispensed with as besides the huge job of maintaining thatch, it also means that the grasslands will no longer be plundered. If only the new huts could keep that unique Kruger hut smell.

Round our caravan are a number of birds.