Lower Sabie 22 – 25th July

Monday, 22nd      With Warren at the wheel, we go out this afternoon along the H10 to Muntshe without seeing anything special.

Tuesday, 23rd             The south wind that has blown lightly for the past couple of days swings around to the east bringing cloud and warm sea air. The temperature during the night falls to 18ºC which for mid winter is ridiculous. At 6am we are again out of the gates and up the H4-1 River road heading for Skukuza. Just before the Nwatimhiri bridge we come across five lions plodding along the road and as is their way, they pay no attention at all to the attendant traffic. Today we are fortunate because when we get ahead of them for a better view, they flop down in the road right in front of us giving us ringside seats.

After a while we leave so as to give others a chance and as we travel up the road, convoys of speeding tourist bakkies pass on the way to the lions. We again stop off at Nkuhlu for refreshments before continuing. Soon we come across a herd of buffalo on the other side of the river drinking.

Word has it that a buffalo was seen with lions on its back. All along this magnificent road there are things of interest and we have a superb morning.

We reach Skukuza at 9.30am, drop Renette at the salon and Warren and I go looking for birds about the camp. In so doing it comes back to me that Skukuza, despite its crowds and “Capital of Kruger” status, is the best camp in Kruger. Away from the main hubbub areas, there are little places of quiet, secluded bush where one can enjoy the teeming birdlife in peace. Add to this the outstanding drives close by and Lake Panic then I will readily give Skukuza the top camp accolade.

After enjoying lunch on the restaurant deck overlooking the river, we make our way back down the H4-1 to Lower Sabie.

This afternoon we head off down the H4-2 south of the camp to the top end of the S28 gravel road to Croc Bridge without seeing anything noteworthy.

Wednesday, 24th         Despite our poor record along the S30 Salitje road on this trip, Warren insists that we give it a third try. So with a clear sky and the prospect of a 34ºC day ahead of us, we are early on Salitje. We immediately come across a solitary lioness next to the road but she quickly wanders off. And I am afraid that is the only remarkable sight that we see along this beautiful road – for the third time. It is a mystery why the H4-1 road on the opposite bank of the Sabie should be teeming with game whereas the S30 should be so barren. There is just no ready explanation.

After our usual stop off at Nkuhlu, we continue towards Lower Sabie and at the first point where the road has been cut by floodwaters, Warren does one of these magical spots that only razor eyed youngsters seem capable of. Down in the riverbed a leopard has strolled behind some bushes. By edging forward we are able to look back and get a clear view of him.

After a while he moves towards us down a bank and then reappears on the edge of some reeds. Of course a major traffic jam builds up but we are in a good place to enjoy him for a while before we disentangle ourselves.

The amazing weather forecaster, no.yr, has got it again dead right as the thermometer reaches 34ºC – something that both Warren and I find most agreeable but Renette does not. We enjoy a midday braai and then later go up the H4-1 enjoying many sights of kudu, giraffe, elephant, nyala and  others along the way.

This evening the south wind pushes through and tomorrow should be a good deal cooler.

I must remark on the improvement in the management of Lower Sabie camp. At one time it was atrocious but now the ablutions are clean and functional, there are no troublesome baboons and monkeys in camp and none of the litter which was once such a problem.

Thursday, 25th        This morning is cool with a light southerly wind. We are going to give the road behind Muntshe (S122) another try so sunrise finds us sipping coffee at the top northernmost end. Thereafter follows a gentle crawl along this lovely road but we see so very little. It would seem that animal and bird have migrated to the Sabie River.

We then enjoy some very pleasant moments at the Mlondozi Picnic Site where we breakfast of enjoy the surrounds.

  Thereafter, back to camp.